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Fugitive Markets and Arrested Mobilities: Gaziantep’s Iranian Bazaar

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Under the auspices of ongoing negotiations between the Iranian state and the P5+1 over the former’s nuclear program and the crippling economic sanctions unleashed by the latter on Iran and its citizens, Moharram proceedings are nonetheless underway full-force in Tehran. Even in Meydoone-e Kajj of Tehran’s Saadat Abad, at the center of the capital’s northern upscale edge and green-turned-purple core, and even against an internationally engineered seventy per cent currency devaluation, one is faced with countless Moharram celebration booths, serving passers-by refreshments and vocalizing captivating recitations days away from Ashura in Tehran. As once traffic-clogged streets are converted to venues of flash open-air concerts, visually and audibly stunning ritualistic elegies dedicated to Hazret-e Hossein, Hazret-e Ali, and others of Ahl-al-Bayt continue to overwhelm one at 11:30 in the evening.


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